The City + the Night
The city itself is a lot more rundown than I would have hoped; plaster and paint peel from even some of the more magnificent palaces and residences. It reminds me of Lisbon in that way, as if the city has been slightly forgotten over the decades (a sentiment that makes sense in the context of Russian history). By day the beautiful architecture and bright colors of the many older structures are overshadowed by tacky electric signs and modern advertisements. The present and past fight for space in the packed city streets, a war which spills blood in the form of ruined views and chronological incongruence.
The sun steps down at 4 o'clock, curtseying slowly to the sky and vanishing behind the horizon. Dusk dances, setting the city aglow in a short pas de deux. White and blue streaks illuminate previously forgotten corners of the city's French Baroque architecture. Eliminating all semblance of color, Dusk brings light and shadow to every traveler's eye. Her feet flitter across the rooftops, swirling the spires in her fleeting glow. The clock ticks at Небский проспект, ushering fur-coated wayfarers to cover as Night takes the stage. Feet scuttle in the metro, up steps and down snow covered pathways; doors close in Night's face as the people of St. Petersburg reject her arrival.
Though many seek cover from her darkness, Night is kind to her folk; she envelopes them in calm, inviting them home for tea and time with family. The city sparkles. Peeling facades are quickly forgotten as my eyes wander along the St. Petersburg skyline. Some buildings are entirely covered in luminous designs, and the city feels magical. The snow and twinkle lights forge a layer of brilliance across the city streets; all at once I can see where Russian folklore makes its presence in this modern European city. My skin tingles with cold and wonder. Fur coats push past me; everyone is hurrying home. But I walk slowly, mesmerized by the lights, the chill, and the enchantress that is Санкт-Петербург.
Love from St. Petersburg,
Shonabell